West is best!

Over the years I have noticed that in many counties the western aspects are often those that retain much of their own identities and culture. Others may deem them however as being backwards and late to cotton on to ‘new technologies’. Take for example in the States in the 19th Century the ‘last frontier’ described the Wild West where the native red Indian lived and of course there is west Wales which is still a hotbed of culture and Welsh language speaking. So in my mind echoes the word of the legendary Ray Gravelle: 'West is certainly best'!  So, was this going to be the case in Zambia?

  We only had one follow up to do in the West at Mongu – not far from the Angolan border. It is around 650km away from Lusaka but the bonus for me was the road travelled literally through Kafue National Park. This park is an area of land that is often quoted as being the size of Wales (how apt!) but is rich in most of the African wildlife (apart from Rhino’s hunted to extinction) and thankfully the populations of elephants are also increasing after years of poaching. So we were on red alert for wildlife when driving along through the park. And we were not disappointed!

Bull elephant hiding in the bush

We had been delayed for about two hours helping at the roadside of a horrible lorry crash which delayed our passage through the park until 3pm. Which in hindsight was a lucky thing as the elephants are usually more active at this time and as luck would have it we spotted a young bull hiding amongst the thorny bushes as we went past after seeing copious numbers of impalas and warthogs. We had a great view of him and we stayed there for quite a bit of time just watching him as he watched us but from a safe distance! It was also the first time Wisdom had ever seen an elephant – imagine – a 46 year old Zambian’s delight at seeing an elephant for the first time! 

The Great West road - Lusaka (far right) to Mongu (far left). 

Mighty Kafue river, full to the brim

We crossed the mighty Kafue river at the Hook bridge and soon exited the park passing villages and crops and roadside sellers. I’m not sure if crossing the river gave me a feeling of entering a different country but it certainly all felt a bit different to previous parts of Zambia that I’d seen. The houses were still mud bricks with grass roofs to start with, but had a less affluent feel to them and the closer we got to Mongu itself I did see a few reed only huts. The roadside produce and crops were now less maize orientated and there was a considerable number of kasava as well as cabbages and pumpkins to add to the monkey nuts and occasional charcoal bags (tree cutting in the national park is forbidden). 

Mud brick huts in the villages

Kasava at the roadside and not maize

Roadside pumpkins and monkeynuts

The Great West road wasn’t covering itself in any glory either. Much like its brother the Great East there were large sections of gravel detours and in fact even on the parts that were tarmarced there were such great potholes that people diverted onto dirt roads in preference! 

Great West Road - potholes galore!

If the East was mountainous and full of woods then the West was the polar opposite. It was full of flat wetlands. This was one of the best aspects as we saw local villagers out fishing using traditional baskets. At first glance I saw the women standing in the water with the baskets and thought they were washing clothes but it was soon apparent that they were fishing. Others had waded out and stood there holding nets catching their fill of fish. And many of the children were delighted to show off their catch using their home made rods!

Traditional basket fishing

Fishing with nets

Catch of the day! Boys with their fishing rods!

We pushed on with the beautiful sunset in front of us changing the sky from blue to orange and red until darkness descended as we got in to Mongu.

The following morning as I got up I was greeted by a sight that I wasn't expecting at all. The place was full of fine sand. In fact so full it was al over the pavements and the roads. This is in complete contrast to the red dusty earth elsewhere, but here in the West they are at the Kalahari region which sort of explains it!

Sandy roads

Mongu is in Barotseland - which was the colonial name for a region that covered parts of Namibia, Angola, Congo and Zambia at one stage. They enjoyed relative autonomy after negotiating with the British government  allowing almost a national state amongst the country that was Northen Rhodesia. This is more than likely why the Lozi people have maintained both their language and cultural heritage so well and are so fiercely proud of it.  Good for them.

I felt very welcome throughout my short time there despite some rumblings that they can be difficult with strangers! We headed for Lewanika hospital (named after the Lozi King of Barotseland in the last century). Indeed the welcome was extended warmly to us at the door of theatres! Though the ordering of shoe removal at the red line (a recurring theme out here) seemed a little less friendly!

Chest clinic wall painting in the hospital

By the time I finished the follow up it was boiling outside - easily 32C. This is probably why there were no emergency cases booked! As we'd made good progress we had a little time to explore the surrounding area. We headed down to the little harbour on the flood plains of the river Zambezi where there was a bustling market selling all manner of things including fish, tomatoes and rice - which is in fact meant to be the best rice in Africa (well so the locals tell me!)

Mongu Harbour

Sacks of Mongu rice

Market full of tomatoes

We also spent a good amount of time watching the fishermen and villagers in their mokoro's (dug out canoes) poling their way through the channels. They use them not only as fishing vessels but as ways of transportation to nearby villages on the plains as well as some going as far as the furthest west town - Kalabo - who is yet to be joined to Mongu via a road/bridge as it keeps sinking into the waterways!

Villages and mokoros

Leaving the village en route further West

Hard working steering a canoe

All in tandem heading West

After a few hours of watching the mokoro's and wandering along the crumbling road bridge we pointed the car East and headed back before darkness descended to avoid travelling through the national park when the carnivores are at their most active! Though as we drove through Kafue Park some of the locals seemed less bothered by the fact that lions roam free. We met this gentleman walking along merrily on his own carrying his load on his head. Rather him than me on many fronts!

Lone walker in the middle of Kafue National Park

However once again I was spoiled rotten with our return. From the mai nroad we saw an abundance of wildlife. From warthogs ducking away as soon as they heard the engine to curious baboons perusing their kingdoms from the trees. Some fantastic looking birdlife were all around. Including this stork which I cannot identify - any suggestions from African ornithologists welcome!

Impala looking on (or bush macdonalds in reference to the M shaped black markings on its buttocks and also its tasty meat on a braai!)

Waterbuck at the top, elephant in the middle and male impala looking on

As we got further in to the park we witnessed a large herd (8 in total) of Waterbuck who were grazing nearby. As we watched them we became more aware of another larger beast moving towards us and indeed looked up to see a wonderful bull elephant walking around the plains. I wouldn't be too surprised if he was the same one as we saw on the way out! However as we drove further on past more impalas and warthogs and birdlife we stumbled upon a family of four elephants nonchalantly eating from a bush about 100m from the road. Again we had the privilege to sit and watch them doing their thing without bothering about us in the slightest! Amazing!

I will be totally honest here I thought the west was an amazing place to visit and am sad that we only had the one follow up to do there. I think this area of the country produced some of the most breathtaking scenes that I have seen in Zambia and it has certainly managed to retain a lot of its heritage and long may that be the case. However we had to bid it good bye and return to Lusaka just as the sun was setting scarlet over the Barotseland plains. It certainly underlined my (and Grav's feelings) that 'West is Best'!