Bogota: Parades, police and parilla's

  We arrived ok. As did the bikes with minor scrapes to my handlebar tapes only. Great stuff. The wheel the bike on and off the aeroplane that Lufthansa offer is certainly worth a look at though their poor selection of in-flight films was less amusing to us! As we got in late evening we arranged to stay at Chia - 20km North of Bogota and headed there via a waiting taxi (which had a bike rack)... so far so good!  We got up for breakfast and were greeted by a steaming hot bowl of fish Caldo! It's a sort of soup/stew concoction  that is eaten with Arepa (corn pattie) then scramble eggs and washed down with Tinto (black coffee flavoured with Pannela (pre-processed sugar). A slight change from the usual cereal and large mug of coffee!

As we'd decided that we would take the first day as a rest day - to fine tune the bikes, adjust to the altitude (2,640m or 8,660ft) and the climate. So we headed into Bogota to take a look around. We thought we'd visit the famous Gold museum and maybe take in some of the old squares and soak up the sunday cyclovia (essentially they shut off loads of roads so people can safely cycle around the town with little or no traffic). We took the bus in and then changed on to the super fast/efficient Transmilenio which is essentially a rapid bus transit that has its own dedicated lane to travel into the city and out again. Fantastic model - much like the underground trains but an above ground bus!
As we got off at our stop we were aware of loud noises, shouting, whistling, drums and of course the vuvuzelas!

Excited to explore and find out what was what (and it was in the same direction as the museum) we headed up the street to be greeted by armed police everywhere! There were armoured cars parked around whilst the protestors looked like they were putting on a carnival/parade! There were dancers and fire-eaters and jugglers intermingling with those yelling slogans (which we didn't understand) through old loudspeakers and holding banners. It seems that the 1st of May is a 'holiday' in

other countries and we had stumbled upon the Labour Day parade - which is a big deal in Colombia evidently! 

Armed police lining the street next to me and Hannah with armed vehicles back up!

Labour Day Parade

Mingling with the parade dancers

Consequently the gold museum, in fact ALL the museums were closed. We followed the parade for a bit as it was held in good spirits and even the armed police seemed to be enjoying it too. The end point for the parade was the Plaza de Bolivar - the main square in the centre of old Bogota. Usually it is full of pigeons and hawkers and the occasional llama (for tourist pictures). However today the stone plaza flanked by the cathedral, congee and palace of justice was full of banners and police and protestors standing around the large statue for the liberator of Colombia.

Plaza de Bolivar

 Leaving the melee behind us we went in search of some lunch. We wandered through back streets with some pretty fantastic graphity/street art displays which were lined with people selling tat/junk much like a car boot sale back home (without the cars!). There seemed no end to the different types of 

street art topics that we saw and they were certainly a welcome 

splash of colour added to quite a grey, sombre appearing city.

As we wandered around we spied, actually, to be accurate we smelt a great place for dinner. There was an amazing looking parrilla (Argentinian BBQ) with all types of meat and fish outside the long trestle tables to entice us in. We just about managed to finish our over-laden plates and roll out back on to the streets.

 We had discovered (via the Lonely Planet) that although all the museums were shut the Cerro de Monserratte (hill and lookout point with a church on its top) was still open. We vowed to walk up in order to get the legs exercising a bit before we cycle tomorrow and also to try and redistribute what we'd just eaten! However on getting to the bottom of the hill it turns out the walk was shut (too dangerous apparently?!) so we were forced to go up in a cable car and then return down in a funicular! There was a phenomenal view of Bogota (little wonder as we were at 3,200m) with no fog or clouds. There were so many people in the mass at the church at the top they were even stood outside listening which was quite surprising compared to UK - though it was a Sunday I guess.

Funicular down

Looking up to Monserratte from the cable car

 

Bogota birds eye view

Having returned to Chia we packed the Panniers, poured over the map to plan a rough route... Zipaquirá (and it's salt mines) and then further North towards Villa de Leyva... Exciting!

Time to leave...

And so it begins... the start of an adventure.

The packing was the easy bit really. Travelling to the airport in London with two bikes and bags etc would be a logistical nightmare. So we've hired an MPV and flattened off the seats so we've enough space for the bikes and the bags (hopefully). The good news so far is... my bike fits! Lets hope that Hannah's does in due course....





After packing my stuff I head further west and pick up Hannah and bike and bags too. No problems! Both bikes and bags (and before anybody comments we both trawled diligently through Carmarthen market for the 'Chinese laundry' bags. A full and well worth it £1.50 spent in order to put both pannier bags into for extra protection!!

  We drove up to London through lashing hail but arrived safely for our pre-departure B&B in Chiswick with Siani Morgan. True to form she'd not only kindly agreed to house is for the night but slaved over a hot oven to make us pizzas from scratch. Great carb loading before we leave! She'd also Sussed out the background knowledge of safety etc when in Bogota and alerted us to it being a potential bank holiday : Labour Day on the Sunday!
  The following morning we had the bizarre task of wheeling the bikes in to Heathrow terminal! We had more than a few 'funny looks', not least from the check-in lady.

Both bikes at Heathrow and checked in bike "as is" not in a box! 

The check-in lady was totally thrown without the bikes in boxes. After a quick conflab with the guy next to her she conceded that we could take the bikes on if we let all the air out of the tyres and turned the handlebars round.it took some persuading that we weren't going to do that at the check in desk as we would then not be able to push the bike to the oversize luggage place!! Eventually we paid the excess and after the bikes checked in we wheeled (the fully aerated tyred bikes) over to excess luggage. The guy there was fantastic. He took us through the back route bowels of the behind the scenes check in. We were put in a special glass room so he could swab the bikes for explosives and then they got wheeled away from us to the plane... We both took a collective breath in of hope and relief! Relief that we'd checked in finally and hope that the bikes will actually meet us in one piece on the other side...



We grabbed a quick breakfast at the 'perfectionist cafe' - how apt!!! Before heading to the gate. Frankfurt first then on to Bogota!! Let's hope the bikes are more complete than the London can we saw in the departure lounge!

Packing it in pre departure!

This trip - though still feeling ages away is within a week. We head off on Saturday morning... which is actually technically less than a week or could even be described as being 48 hours away... Eek! Where has my week gone to?

The beginning of it was actually glorious sunshine that allowed the wonderful display of bluebells in the garden to really shine. This also coincided with brushing up with all the likely venomous and dangerous flora and fauna that may greet us along the way. Thankfully my youngest niece has shown me quite a few tricks when trying to diffuse the threats of any giant worms.

Beautiful sunshine and bluebells

Nesta with the menacing giant worm

 

                         

However I had to jump in the car and head up to North Wales for two days to do various visits and logistical tasks! Firstly I had to visit Bethan Hickerton (Tink 2) who'll be heading out to meet me in Ecuador so I could drop off a bag with suitable attire for travelling on a boat around the Galapagos and hiking up to 6,000m. Somehow I don't think that the two pairs of cycling shorts I am taking with me to Colombia are going to be suitable for either task by then! We also had a few details to hammer out about the trip but I think Beth had managed to excel herself with preparing for my visit! 

A planning meetings is thirsty work

The following day I then head off into North Wales to visit another Bethan (also know as 'the lovely' Bethan) and also Ceri (my oldest childhood friend) and her family. It's always lovely to catch up with folk that you don't see all that often in person and especially so with all the changes and ups and downs that have taken place in the last few months for both of them. It was also lovely to receive the very kind gifts of a lucky charm bracelet and some soothing Welsh lavender massage oils for tired muscles! We had a great time and it was with a heavy heart I got into my car once again and pointed South. Coincidental perhaps was the first song that blared out as I turned on the radio "It's the final Countdown" by Europe... but I took the hint and drove home through ridiculous snow blizards en route (here's hoping the Andes are more forgiving)!!

Snowy Snowdon

  

And perhaps the inclement weather was just what I needed to get my act together for the packing duties ahead. So in time old fashion, I put everything I thought I'd need on the bed. I then halved it, quartered it, eightethed it (is that a word?) and then halved it again to a sixteenth of the original pile!!! Though I feel I am on the bare bones of what I need it still seemed like a lot laid out on the bed.

The final Colombia collection

The acid test was next... would it all fit in the two pannier bags. With trepidation (and lots of rolling and shoving) I commenced on that task... and lo and behold I was spot on. Two full but packed panniers ready for the off. 

All packed and ready to go on the bike

Of course that would have been fine if we were setting off on the bikes from Carmarthen, but we're not! We're flying out to Colombia and so the luggage needs to go in the hold along with the bike... Though small the panniers would still count as two bags so I then had the unenviable task of turning two into one. Thanks goodness I'd bought that large stuff sack from Lidl a few years ago! And stuff sack is by the far the best description of the packing process to get everything in. There's not even any space for fresh air in that bag anymore!

BOOM! Sorted

  So the next problem to attend to is... you've guessed it.. the bike. Originally we were going to take it to bits and pack it in a box. However after a fortuitous phone call with Lufthansa they assure me that we can just wheel them in to the terminal. Genuinely! I'm still not 100% convinced but after three further phone calls and a confirmation emails it seems that the bikes will be in one piece in the hold. Just as well as I didn't fancy lifting them up into the overhead locker! 

Next stop London (airport) so it seems!

Dwy ar daith: Two on tour

 It seems to be somewhat of a co-incidence that I’ve been called the Peter Pan of medical training for several years now (the junior doctor that refuses to grow up to be a consultant). I’ve travelled to fantastic places and met, worked and played with some special people all over the globe for the last 16 years– maybe not quite Neverland, Wendy and Captain Hook but pretty close to it!

So here I am a day away from actually finishing as a junior doctor having had an amazing year working at Great Ormond Street and living in the capital of England. 

 It's allowed me to explore the 'sights' and also take in the lesser 'seen' things such as the amazing street art (graffiti). Below is probably my most favourite street artist: Nathan Bowen (no relation!) who tends to be able to turn a scribble into an amazing facade for the side of a building.

St Paul's and the 'walkie-talkie'           

       The Shard, Gherkin and the London Eye

Peter Pan and Tinkerbell

  And it is probably only co-incidental that every day I go to work I pass the bronze statue for Peter Pan and Tinkerbell situated to acknowledge J.M.Barrie’s incredible donation of the royalties of his fantasy character to Great Ormond Street Hospital. However on the eve of starting as a consultant (and yes, I do actually have a grown up consultant job to start at long last) I’ve magically been granted a final reprieve to run away to “Neverland and never come back till forever ends”… well, ok not quite. It seems forever ends or rather starts in August but still there’s 3 months of adventure ahead! So as you may have gathered this is not a blog about London or of working in a hospital rather one of adventure and travel.

Christmas Elf (or me starting the Peter Pan metamorphosis)

And of course Peter Pan never goes on adventures by himself but he has a trusted and fun companion – Tinkerbell or Tinks. And luckily for me there are similar characters itching, ready and set for adventure in Neverland. In fact I’m
extremely lucky as I will be joined by two separate Tinkerbelles. I should introduce both now as Hannah (Tink 1) and Bethan (Tink 2) – though if this comparison doesn’t guarantee them pushing me in front of the crocodile or Captain Hook nothing will!

         Tinkerbell 1: Hannah - ready for anything

Tinkerbell 2: Bethan - At ease on the water

Tinkerbell 1: Hannah: The intrepid and
consumate traveller

So, what does one do with three months of time? There are a gazillion options - loads that are incredibly tempting and dare I say it on my 'bucket list' (if I had the time or inclination to sit down and write one). Which brings me back to what’s the plan? Well, Peter Pan was never strong on planning and strangely enough neither am I. I cannot take credit for the adventure idea as it wasn't mine!

As it happens, Hannah (Tink 1) heard I had some time and was planning some mischief and time off herself. She has always had a burning ambition to cycle tour in Colombia and when she heard that I was potentially granted some time to mess around she ‘carpe diem-ed me’. Needless to say it was a definite yes from me! I'd been inspired by Hannah's tales of previous cycle touring exploits with some of her close friends who went on to cycle the whole length of Latin and South America
( should you want to read anything about cycling through South America here's their amazing blog: https://caminolatino.wordpress.com ). The rest as they say is history! Hannah being a seasoned cycle tourist, having already conquered parts of South America already and can speak Spanish seemed a very sensible friend to have by my side. However, I suspect she was counting on me to put in a bit more effort than hiring a Boris Bike to use out there! Sadly due to work constraints Hannah only has two months of time away which meant I had a full month to play with on my own after that.

Tinkerbell 2: Bethan - always a keen eye
for wildlife

   Luckily Beth (Tink 2) was also very keen to have an adventure/holiday of a lifetime too. Ok, to be honest this is a holiday of a lifetime edition 2. Edition 1 happened a year ago when, prior to Beth starting as a consultant in Liverpool, she came out to visit me in Zambia and we saw the inspiring Victoria Falls, and had unforgettable safari trips (genuinely almost being trampled by elephants and eaten by wild dogs).  Anyway the lure of a trip to the Galapagos Islands (where there are no wild dogs) was too much and she promptly booked her flights as I then snuck in, and booked a climb up the (currently) dormant volcano Cayemebe (5,790m) into the itinerary when she wasn't looking.   

     Brixton Bikes: a complete gem in an
edgy neighbourhood

 And so then the odious planning had to start taking place... I thought I should bite the bullet and buy a touring bike. Lucky for me, I got some great pointers from Hannah's friends (and on their advice, and I have to say they were spot on) I took a trip to Brixton Bikes in London. The shop is an independent bike co-operative and full of an eclectic mix of people who know their stuff about 2 wheeled transport. It was also quite an adventure finding it as it's in a pretty lively and edgy neighbourhood. I certainly learnt more in 20 minutes about touring bikes than I ever knew existed, from a Rastafarian who'd cycled round every Caribbean island (or so he claims). Anyway he seemed to know a thing or two and was incredibly enthusiastic about my trip so I left having bought my brand new Surly bike, a Long Haul Trucker.

Not your usual London commuter                                                                                                             

Getting the bike and bringing it back to Wales was one thing - kitting it out was a whole different ball game. In the end I've decided to keep it simple and travel with only two back panniers and the bare minimum inside them. Well... if you're going to trawl up the Andes on a bike then less will definitely be more (certainly when slogging uphill).

So, despite not enjoying the planning aspects it seems that so far I have got some of the most important things sorted - trusted companions, valid flight tickets, a bike and some panniers. Throw in some local currency and a guidebook and I reckon I'm just about there!

So I think Peter Pan and his friends are certainly heading in the right direction as they prepare to leave London for Neverland.